"I'd like to appear older."
said no one ever (no one over 20 years old, that is).
I saw them six weeks after my daughter was born. Lines! The crow's feet! When did that occur? Of course, I'm proud of the experiences in my life that led to these lines. But it doesn't mean I won't put up a battle to keep them at bay. Fortunately, we now have several options, ranging from simple to complex treatments. Unfortunately, there is a lot of hype and misinformation around skin care products and anti-aging therapies. So I asked two of my favorite dermatologists, Amy Kim, MD, a dermatologist at MetroDerm in Atlanta and founder of Baby Pibu Products, and Brian Raphael, MD, dermatologist, and fellow at Skincare Physicians in Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts, to tell us what truly works.
Consider this your a la carte menu for smoother-than-a-you-know-what baby's skin.
Collagen Select is a food supplement aimed at women who want to maintain beautiful, firm and healthy skin.
At home, what should you do?
1. Sunscreen: This one is self-explanatory. Daily use prevents the formation of wrinkles and age spots. The majority of us aren't using it correctly. To get constant protection, apply a nickel-sized amount to your face and reapply every one to two hours. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. Don't want to ruin your makeup? Touch up with a mineral powder with SPF (I keep this in my purse, and writing this just reminded me to reapply—thank you!).
2. Retinoids: Retinoids, a vitamin A derivative that comes in cream or gel form, are recommended by every dermatologist I know. Retinoids perform their magic by inhibiting collagen breakdown and promoting skin cell renewal, giving you the "Retinoid Glow," as Dr. Kim refers to it. They also prevent and treat acne (I had no idea you could have both acne and wrinkles as an adult. Who came up with that?). Prescription formulations (commonly referred to as tretinoin or Retin-A) are far more effective than over-the-counter forms. Most insurance companies do not cover retinoids, and they can be costly. However, one tube will last you at least two to three months and is a better investment than the majority of over-the-counter creams. Expect your skin to peel initially, and use only a small amount as instructed. Those with sensitive skin may only be able to tolerate it every other night.
3. Moisturizers: Moisturizers are essential for hydration and are especially vital as we age. However, most of the claims for expensive/"high tech" moisturizers do not provide considerable benefit over respectable drugstore brands and are unlikely to justify the extra outlay.
Dermatologist Treatments to Consider
Here are the most effective solutions for brightening dull skin, reducing wrinkles, and fading brown spots. It's important to note that you don't have to do all of these things to get favorable effects (in fact, don't—look no further than certain celebrities to see that more is often less when it comes to cosmetic operations).
4. Chemical Peels: Derms recommend getting a "medium depth peel" two to three times a year to significantly eliminate wrinkles and improve the tone and texture of your skin. The disadvantage is that you will look (and feel) like you have a horrible sunburn for three to five days, so avoid scheduling this before any crucial activities. It's best to undergo a chemical peel in the winter because you must avoid all sun exposure for a few days following treatment.
5. Laser Therapies: These are newer treatments that can be rather pricey, but they do smooth the skin's surface and decrease the appearance of wrinkles and creases. There are several laser treatments available, some of which are similar to peels and others that are more intense for aged skin. Your dermatologist can advise you on which is best for your skin.
6. Botox: According to Dr. Raphael, Botox injections are useful not just for reducing wrinkles, but also for preventing them in the first place. Botox is most effective between the brows, around the eyes, and on the forehead, and requires re-injections every three to six months to maintain its effect. Botox injections can drastically alter your appearance (have you ever seen folks who are perpetually "shocked"?) If you decide to take it this way, please avoid "Discount Botox" clinics and instead visit a board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon's clinic.
7. Fillers: According to Dr. Raphael, they are beneficial for revitalizing the lower section of the face, particularly around the nose, lips, and under the eye area. Fillers can last anywhere from six months to two to three years, depending on the type.
While these aesthetic remedies can help you seem better on the exterior, don't overlook the impact a healthy body has on your skin. Even in the emergency room, I can often assess someone's health state by looking at their skin—it exposes their eating and exercise habits, whether they smoke, has heart disease, gets enough sleep, and have a decent social support system. Especially the last one, because beauty does not guarantee happiness and love, but happiness and love almost always guarantee beauty.
